Friday 16 May 2014

THE NEW YORK TIMES REVIEW - TWO ONE TWO BAR AND GRILL

Over the last few years, the Mumbai dining scene has been bombarded with hip openings competing for attention from a group of increasingly well-heeled residents. While the ambience at these restaurants might be buzzing, the food doesn’t necessarily impress. The upscale Italian boîte Two One Two Bar and Grill, which opened just over a year ago, is different: although the glamour set has already descended here, the draw is decidedly on the menu.

For starters, Two One Two stands out among Mumbai’s restaurants for including an ingredient rarely found on Indian menus: beef. Since the cow is sacred in Hinduism and thus forbidden to consume, diners looking for real steak — as opposed to one drawn from local water buffalo, as is the common practice — are usually left feeling unfulfilled. Here, grilled steak is a highlight, and it’s possible to order at least five kinds, including a ribeye and a more than one-pound Angus T-bone — the latter will run you 3,900 rupees or about $85. (Wagyu, also pricey, is occasionally available.)

The meat comes from an import company run out of New Delhi, and Ketan Kadam, one of the restaurant’s owners, said it is among the most popular orders. “The customers getting the steaks are usually in their 20s or 30s who have enjoyed them when they have either lived or traveled abroad,” he said.

But the executive chef, Alex Bignotti, who is originally from Milan, doesn’t just focus on beef. He executes vegetarian dishes, like a goat cheese and wild mushroom strudel, with equal panache. And the dishes shine because of the high quality ingredients. “We really focused on using the best of the best, no matter the cost,” Mr. Kadam said, “because we feel like that’s the key to our long-term success.”

Creamy mozzarella, served as an appetizer with pesto, for example, is made in the nearby city of Pune, home to a sizable Italian community. And while many international eateries in the city disguise poor quality seafood under heavy sauces, the options here, like simply grilled local king prawns finished with a Tuscan olive oil, are largely left unadulterated, allowing their natural taste to shine.

Two One Two Bar and Grill, 12-A, Ground Floor, Hornby Vellard Estate, Sanghi Road, Worli; (91-22) 2490-1994. An average meal for two, without drinks (or the expensive beef dishes) is about 4,400 rupees, or $97 at 45 rupees to the dollar. 


http://www.nytimes.com/2011/06/12/travel/restaurant-report-two-one-two-bar-and-grill-in-mumbai.html

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